Funtodo Industrial Black Issue


Good afternoon-

So, I am trying to do a project with my daughter in which we 3d print a frame and then fill the holes with “Makit Bakit” crystals, put into the oven and make stained glass panes. I have had GREAT success with people resins for miniatures, walls, etc for gaming, but this is the first time using a non-peopoly resin. I am using Funtodo’s Industrial resin as it can bake to over 400 degrees without issues. Unfortunately, I had a print fail, in addition to it ruining my vat on the very first print. Wondering if you might help:

Here are my settings settings:
Laser power 54 (per recommended settings on the spreadsheet for another Funtodo resin)
z moto speed 10
PM moto speed 40
This has been PERFECTLY balanced (within 20 microns) using the 4 post printing method

Here is the model (actually, similar-- I added more supports after it didn’t work, but don’t want to print untilI have run this by people that know more than me.:

It failed miserably. Some posts failed at the bases, others at the top. But several things happened:

  1. The tops of the posts where the object to print was located had this odd amalgam of unformed “blobs”
  2. The ENTIRE surface of the build plate was caked in a thin layer of cured resin, not only where there was supposed to be things printed
  3. The entire surface of the PDMS layer was completely caked with cured resin that took 30 minutes to carefully peel off, but even with being as careful as I could, I still managed to rip the PDMS layer.

Here is what the build plate looked like:

Here is the PDMS layer after peeling away some of the caked on resin (before ruining the PDMS)

And here is the detritus left over after peeling things off of both sides:

Can anyone help me on how to change the settings so I don’t ruin another build plate? Should I turn down the laser to the 40s? What causes the “goopy” failed parts… I haven’t seen that in print failures before. Is adding more support the best option? And finally, one user on the spreadsheet had a laser power of 48 for another fantod resin, but then it is highlighted in red, which made me think that this was shown not to work… or maybe that shows it is verified by many to work?

Where should I go from here?



Below is from the Funtodo web site. They have some resin formulated for laser sla printers but the normal resin is very reactive. That means you’d need to turn the laser down and increase the speed.

Use this guide and test with small prints.

"All our resins are designed to be ultra fast!
Curing times of 0.5 seconds for 0.02mm layers are easily achieved on standard Dlp printers with an average light source of around 240Watts.

A broad range of reactivity!
The resin have a very broad range of reactivity, it extends from the very short wavelengths of 225nm to the near/visible wavelengths of 415nm. By incorporating a very smart blend of photo initiaters and sensitizers, almost any light source can be used to initiate the polymerization process of our resins. No need to modify your expensive DLP projector! Do you have a laser SLA machine? or perhaps a DLP printer with a LED source of illumination? As long as the wavelength is between 225nm and 415nm, it will work, and it will work fast!
Besides the wavelength of the lightsource several other factors are important, so please check out our properties page. If you are in doubt if your specific machine is compatible with our resins, just send us an e-mail."


Funtodo resins can have very different reactive level to UV level. They make short work of the PDMS layer inside the vat. Also your orientiation of print is not ideal since it has very high surface area per layer. You should try to tilt it up or even go vertical if you can.


Don’t know about orienting completely vertical… even with peopoly resin when I print many things straight up it burns the PDMS layer quite quickly in any area that has a significant vertical surface. I was printing some hollowed out walls for gaming, and when they are printed straight up, it leaves a very clear line where the wall edge was even after the first print (at 57 power). Since discovering this, I only print in diagonal configurations. But, yes, the surface area is high with the small tilt on it… if had many successes with even more, but with the new resin I will try to tilt it closer to vertical. Only worry is that this resin seems to have less tensile strength than peopoly resin… maybe not by the supplied documentation but based on my VERY limited testing. Worried that tall supports will fail.

I am leveling the current resin vat using the industrial resin. So far 48 power seems to get it to attach to the build plate, but not as strongly as the peopoly resin. Oddly, though, I need to compress the pdms layer significantly more to get it to stick. If I make those pegs each 10.8mm tall, usually 3 of 4 of them will fail. I am compressing to 10.6mm and they all work fine. Could this be a laser power problem… should I up it to 49?


10.6mm is more than enough. you should up the laser instead for this case


Excellent, thanks. I’ll try it at 49 power. I am trying the same print as before, oriented in a approximately 60 degree angle to try to decrease sheer forces.


This half printed at power 48, but supports gave out about half way through. Everything stuck to the build plate just fine. Will up laser to 49 and retry. Is a change in laser power by a single step expected to make much change, or should i go up by 2 instead? The parts that did cure were pretty soft and floppy.


You should be doing this testing with the ring test file and refer to the exposure guide linked above.


you can up the laser but the heat and damage to PDMS will increase