Cleaning build plate?

I have owned the Moai printer now for two weeks and I have just installed a heater. This has improved the quality of the prints heaps. Since installing the Peopoly heater I have been printing non-stop for more than 24 hours now. Heater and printer have been continuous. Also, I have not cleaned the build plate, just scrap of the model off and put the build plate back into the printer and start the next print. Is there any problems with running non-stop and should I clean the build plate? Its been going great so far.

No problem at all. I have never cleaned the build plate other than with the spatula. If you change resin then you should clean it with IPA.

Good luck with your printing streak!

as @Whazaa said, cleaning built plate is not necessary,as long as you are using the same resin.
if you are printing non-stop, it’s best to reset the machine after each print, just to avoid SD card problems

Thanks. It makes sense not to clean the buildplate. Also it seems to waste alot of resin washing the plate each time.

Invest in some silicone squeegees to recover the resin from the build plate. It saves resin and avoids ‘some’ of the resin-mess. They are also useful for stirring the resin in the vat.

i know that mixing different colours of standard moai resin works as wasting the dregs to me is worse than a failed print. it would be fun to see if i can get half black and half green print but the motion of the build plate mixes it well

I’ve been searching for more information on cleaning the build plate. I just got a MAOI 200 and the build plate is a perforated plate which looks like it was rarely clean and when it was it got scratch up a bit. About half the holes are clogged and not easily cleared out. Half the plate also had a thin sheett of cured resin that would need to be scrapped off but plastic spatula just won’t do it.
Can anyone recommend a good way to clean it out and get it back closer to original so I can do IPA wipe between prints?

If there’s a bunch of resin stuck to/in it that you can’t get off, it’s likely that a soack in IPA will start to break it down and let you clean it a bit easier.

I use a metal paint scraper a bit like this:
It’s dangerous, and I’ve stabbed myself with it once, so never put your hand anywhere near where you’re scraping, but it’s very effective at getting under the corner of a print and breaking the resin-plate seal.

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Thanks for the help. Very new to resin printing. So will cured resin softness in IPA? How long will it take and do I need to use 99% or 70% will work?
Since the plate seems to be simple aluminum I’m assuming I can wet sand it if I feel like it’s too scratched up?

Generally bits of cured/semi-cured resin start to soften with prolonged exposure to ipa, heat might help as well. I’m pretty sure anything >70% should work.

As for sanding, a lot of people do that on cheaper machines, if the bed is really messed up it might be worth doing, but keep in mind that you don’t actually want it smooth, it’s gotta have a bit of surface texture for the print to hold onto, just don’t want burrs or anything sticking out that will mess up your FEP film.

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