Castable resin troubleshooting (b9 yellow) - bed adhesion and other failures

Hello fellow resin printing enthusiasts! Up until recently, I felt like I was a very lucky Moai owner since everything went quite smoothly. Now I’m trying to start printing castable resins and, oh boy, it’s been a struggle. I recently got my centrifugal casting machine set up and i am absolutely ITCHING to do some castings. Unfortunately, this is at least day 3 of constant failures with the b9 yellow castable resin. I haven’t had a single successful print except the bed leveling cylinders. I know others have had success so I won’t stop until I do as well. Also, I have to get it working else I wasted $200 on resin!

I originally posted on the facebook group, but I’m moving the discussion/log here since it was getting long and, more importantly, I want to have everything saved somewhere that others can easily find if they are running into similar problems.

FB posts:
1 (me) - "I’m having build plate adhesion issues for the first time. I’m trying to use b9 castable resin (first time). Usually 3 of the 4 test cylinders adhere to the build plate. The other one sticks to the FEP film. I tried printing a model (with raft) in the area that the cylinders were working but it didn’t stick to the build plate either.

I’ve tried re-leveling the build plate (ez level build plate) and scuffing the build plate with 80 grit sand paper. Laser power is 58. Should I try changing the z-reset from 1816 to 1817? What other things can I try to fix this issue?"

2 (me) - " I’ve read through this post on the forums a few times over the months: Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers

The may '19 post by Dirk leads me to consider an even higher laser power and also changing my z-reset. I’m a little nervous to change the z-reset and also to try a laser power as high as his (64). My current z reset is 1816 and laser power is 58. I will try, in order:

  1. z-reset to 1817
  2. default z-reset (1816) and laser power 60
  3. laser power 60, z reset 1817
  4. laser power 60, z reset 1818
  5. laser power 62, z reset 1818

and report back"

3 (me) - “Laser power 60 and Z-reset 1817 worked for printing all 4 test cylinders. They were also noticably less squishy. I’m now going to attempt to print a model of my own now.”

4 (me) - "Ok, well laser power 60 and z-reset 1817 is getting there but I’m still having problems. Here is the model and here is the “print”

Does anyone have any suggestions? Peopoly? Once the raft is sticking, I’m assuming that I shouldn’t change the z-reset? I’m going to try the same print again with laser power 62."

5 (me) - “Captain’s log, stardate 4523:
Laser power 62 had worse results. Nothing stuck to the build plate. Now trying laser power 57 and z-reset 1818. Keeping hope that I will eventually be able to reliably use the $200 bottle of resin I bought”

6 (me) - "Still failure, but a different kind of failure so thats good! The previous prints were 40 micron. This print was at 80 micron, 57 laser power, z-reset 1818. It appears that about 2/3 of the board printed but at some point between the print start and when it got to about halfway to 2/3 of the board done, the supports separated from the raft? The part of the board that didn’t properly print was stuck to the FEP vat so I think that’s what caused the issue. "

7 (me) - “I doubt it’ll help, but I’m going to at least try an even lower laser power. Next print will have same settings (80 micron, z-reset 1818), but I’ll try laser power of 54 instead of 57. If that doesn’t work, I’ll use the settings from the previous print but on the opposite side of the build platform”
(it didn’t work)

8 ( 3D Studio) - “For what it’s worth, Bluecast and PDMS works at laser 58, increasing the PM Reset to 60 and slowing PM Moto to 8-10 helped more than anything. Support tip size of 1.20
Not using FEP, but did read on another forum that people were coating the FEP with a thin film of PTFE lubricant so prints adhered to plate instead of film.”

9 (陳彦廷) - “looking at your support setup, the middle support is too thick, this wont allow the resin to flow in between the pillars, try a thinner support with the same top contact radius.
Also you should slow down the PM motor speed and increase the PM reset. this will give you a higher chance of success at the expensive of print time.
If you have the normal peopoly resins, do your leveling with that and make sure all 4 pillars are at 10.2, levelling is the first thing you need to get right.”

9b response (me) - “Thank you so much! I’m doing a complete reset with my troubleshooting. I started with replacing the FEP film, cleaning everything, leveling the bed, and I’m just about to do the bed leveling cylinders print. I’ll then work on getting the test ring to print. I’m going to stay away from that custom snowboard model until I get success with other, simpler test prints”

10 (me) - “Hello everyone. Considering the saga this may become, I’ve decided to move everything to the peopoly forums. This will also ensure that all the progress is saved if (when?) I finally get it working and hopefully help others in the future”

As an update to number 9: I tried a different support structure which used thinner columns as per 陳彦廷’s suggestion. Still had issues:

As i mentioned above, I’m doing a complete reset today. I had damaged my FEP film from being too rough with it getting the stuck prints off with the plastic scraper. I’ve very carefully replaced the FEP film, cleaned everything, re-leveled the bed, and am about to print the bed leveling cylinders. I’ll post an update after that as an edit to this post. If it works I’ll try to print the test ring that comes with the sd card.

Failures all around. Tried 2 prints with the freshly replaced FEP film and re-leveled bed, swapped and tried 2 prints with the PDMS vat (re-leveled the bed for that), and none worked. I put back in the FEP vat, re-leveled the bed, gave the chamber over an hour to heat up (just in case), and just started another print attempt. All 5 of the prints I mentioned are just the DIYtest bed level cylinders :confused:

Also, I even tried a light coating of PTFE lubricant on the FEP film (recommended by several people as a last resort). Still not working.

Hi @keith826, the laser power 60 and z reset 1817 give back the best results, so we should start from there
I like the fact that you have all the information laid out, i’m appreciated, it makes trouble shooting much easier to follow
B9 yellow is not made for Moai to print originally, so Chitubox will not be the best option to generate support

However, if you are having trouble using Asura, try the adjust Chitubox with the following:

  1. tip size, 1.2 ( or above if big model)
  2. support base, B9 yellow is already not a great option to print, and the raft of Chitubox just make it worse, switch to a circle base or none base will get you better adhesion
  3. decrease the amount of support, focus on the first layer and have space between supports, having a flow space for resin will reduce the unnecessary peel force

Thank you very much! If I can’t figure it out soon, I’m debating ordering bluecast. Does it print easier than b9 on the Moai?

I’ve given up on the b9 castable resin. I’ve ordered some bluecast. I’ll try it out and report back with each step of the process.

In the meantime, I’ve switched back to the standard peopoly resins and will be making silicone molds of them for use with my injection wax machine.

LADDDDIIIEEEESSSSS AND GENTLEMEN! We finally have success. Bluecast x10 did the trick!

laser power 59, PM moto 10, PM initial 10, z-reset (FEP) 1818

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Holy shit. I fucking LOVE bluecast x10! No issues. I printed the test cylinders, the test ring, my snowboard model, and then about half a build plate! All have worked great







First casting success! Sorry for poor quality photos. I made it from bronze (90% copper 10% aluminum by weight)

I still have a ways to go, but I finally feel like I’m making solid progress


Hi…great prints…I’d like to order the exact same fep film as what you’re using…can you share that info plz…I also use bluecast, but no luck with fep film…thx

I use the FEP film sold on the peopoly website. Are your prints sticking to the FEP film? Are you using the bluecast primer on the build plate?

I’ve been using blue cast for a while. But I quit using the fep vat as it was not giving me good results. Then seeing yours, that’s perfect. I know not all fep films are the same so thought I’d try the one you’re using. I. Appreciate the info. I just ordered some and will try it.

The build plate isn’t an issue. It’s the actual film. But I think matterhackers gave me a bad film. It was terrible from the start. I’ve had it on the shelf since it first came out and got bad results all around.

Thanks again. I cast silver for many years and your work is very nice. Congrats.

Did you get some of the bluecast primer? If not, you could try new FEP first before buying it. Hopefully the new FEP film and/or primer will get it working. If not, let me know and we can try to figure out what’s different. Was the FEP giving you problems with regular resin? If so, definitely something going on that the primer wouldn’t help.

If you do get or use the primer…I just put ~3 drops (big enough to fall on their own) on the corners of the build plate and use my index finger with a fresh gloved hand to spread it around. It takes a bit to get it nice and even since it’s so viscous / sticky. Gotta be careful to really get it even and rubbed in and to not use too much.

Btw, it really means a lot to hear that. I’ve just started teaching myself metal casting these past months and it’s been quite the journey, with a HELL of a lot of stuck moments, broken things, and cursing. It’s been very worth it though. I’ve done 2 castings with my centrifugal casting machine and it’s been a game changer. It’s just a cheap ~$120 thing I mounted to a big ass block of concrete and made a splatter shield around. Before I was using a vacuum chamber but I couldn’t pull enough vacuum / do it well enough with my homemade vacuum chamber to get good casts. I also just got a full sized oxy-acetylene set-up and that’s been awesome (being super careful…previous owner didn’t even have check valves or flashback arrestors on it). The oxy-acetylene torch + centrifugal casting machine has given amazing results.

I’ve never used the primer…didn’t know it even exists?

I could help you save a ton of money on torch…are you in the states? I’m in Miami Florida and I can show you the best and cheapest ways to cast…I’ve mastered that part. I’ll call you if you’re in the states and send links of things I’ve 3d printed and repurposed to cast best and near little money…I also use a cheap dental $120 centrifuge and it works well enough…I only cast silver as gold is too expensive, but gold is actually same process as silver with apparently better results…

I’m gonna buy x10 bluecast next…I’m just got in new bottle of LS bluecast and need to use that up…my moai has paid itself over many times with Jewerly sales…I wish you luck…I sell mostly local and etsy. but clients trickle in…enough to justify the cost.

what’s your laser power? curious? firmware? settings? your pieces come out cleaner than mine…the casting process is perfect for me…just not the best prints…not bad prints, but I want better…

thanks for help

Honestly, I kinda wanted the torch :stuck_out_tongue: I got a good deal on it. Industrial sized tanks, cart, torch/hoses/tips, fresh fill, AND fresh hydrostat for $650. I’m based in Golden Colorado.

It could be a difference between bluecast LS and bluecast x10. Are you sure that the bluecast you have is for SLA? Not only are there different types of bluecast (LS, x5, x10), but each of those also has a sub-type (DLP, SLA, etc).

My settings for bluecast are:

laser power: 58
PM moto: 10
initial PM moto: 10
Z-reset was leveled at 1816 but is set at 1817 for printing

I’m pretty sure the rest are default

Out of curiosity, how much do you sell pieces for? I’m curious about a general range. If you had a couple pics and prices you sell em for, I’d greatly appreciate that. I have no idea how much I would charge for things :stuck_out_tongue: Currently, I’m making things for free for friends while I learn

Brother…trust me…I have a torch that burns just as hot as anything you have and the only gas I use is Propane…I’ll send you a link of what I did and others are doing…it’ll blow you mind…

check my website (my wife is the face of the company) to see our stuff and prices…it’s also on etsy, but website is easier to navigate…

here is my email so I can send you more info on casting…texting could be easier, but I’ll leave that up to your comfort level. I personally like helping where I can as others have helped me…

can you tell me where to buy the primer? what’s it called? My prints are coming out, but not every time…thanks