Hello fellow resin printing enthusiasts! Up until recently, I felt like I was a very lucky Moai owner since everything went quite smoothly. Now I’m trying to start printing castable resins and, oh boy, it’s been a struggle. I recently got my centrifugal casting machine set up and i am absolutely ITCHING to do some castings. Unfortunately, this is at least day 3 of constant failures with the b9 yellow castable resin. I haven’t had a single successful print except the bed leveling cylinders. I know others have had success so I won’t stop until I do as well. Also, I have to get it working else I wasted $200 on resin!
I originally posted on the facebook group, but I’m moving the discussion/log here since it was getting long and, more importantly, I want to have everything saved somewhere that others can easily find if they are running into similar problems.
1 (me) - "I’m having build plate adhesion issues for the first time. I’m trying to use b9 castable resin (first time). Usually 3 of the 4 test cylinders adhere to the build plate. The other one sticks to the FEP film. I tried printing a model (with raft) in the area that the cylinders were working but it didn’t stick to the build plate either.
I’ve tried re-leveling the build plate (ez level build plate) and scuffing the build plate with 80 grit sand paper. Laser power is 58. Should I try changing the z-reset from 1816 to 1817? What other things can I try to fix this issue?"
2 (me) - " I’ve read through this post on the forums a few times over the months: Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers
The may '19 post by Dirk leads me to consider an even higher laser power and also changing my z-reset. I’m a little nervous to change the z-reset and also to try a laser power as high as his (64). My current z reset is 1816 and laser power is 58. I will try, in order:
- z-reset to 1817
- default z-reset (1816) and laser power 60
- laser power 60, z reset 1817
- laser power 60, z reset 1818
- laser power 62, z reset 1818
and report back"
3 (me) - “Laser power 60 and Z-reset 1817 worked for printing all 4 test cylinders. They were also noticably less squishy. I’m now going to attempt to print a model of my own now.”
4 (me) - "Ok, well laser power 60 and z-reset 1817 is getting there but I’m still having problems. Here is the model and here is the “print”
Does anyone have any suggestions? Peopoly? Once the raft is sticking, I’m assuming that I shouldn’t change the z-reset? I’m going to try the same print again with laser power 62."
5 (me) - “Captain’s log, stardate 4523:
Laser power 62 had worse results. Nothing stuck to the build plate. Now trying laser power 57 and z-reset 1818. Keeping hope that I will eventually be able to reliably use the $200 bottle of resin I bought”
6 (me) - "Still failure, but a different kind of failure so thats good! The previous prints were 40 micron. This print was at 80 micron, 57 laser power, z-reset 1818. It appears that about 2/3 of the board printed but at some point between the print start and when it got to about halfway to 2/3 of the board done, the supports separated from the raft? The part of the board that didn’t properly print was stuck to the FEP vat so I think that’s what caused the issue.
7 (me) - “I doubt it’ll help, but I’m going to at least try an even lower laser power. Next print will have same settings (80 micron, z-reset 1818), but I’ll try laser power of 54 instead of 57. If that doesn’t work, I’ll use the settings from the previous print but on the opposite side of the build platform”
(it didn’t work)
8 (BoozeKashi.com 3D Studio) - “For what it’s worth, Bluecast and PDMS works at laser 58, increasing the PM Reset to 60 and slowing PM Moto to 8-10 helped more than anything. Support tip size of 1.20
Not using FEP, but did read on another forum that people were coating the FEP with a thin film of PTFE lubricant so prints adhered to plate instead of film.”
9 (陳彦廷) - “looking at your support setup, the middle support is too thick, this wont allow the resin to flow in between the pillars, try a thinner support with the same top contact radius.
Also you should slow down the PM motor speed and increase the PM reset. this will give you a higher chance of success at the expensive of print time.
If you have the normal peopoly resins, do your leveling with that and make sure all 4 pillars are at 10.2, levelling is the first thing you need to get right.”
9b response (me) - “Thank you so much! I’m doing a complete reset with my troubleshooting. I started with replacing the FEP film, cleaning everything, leveling the bed, and I’m just about to do the bed leveling cylinders print. I’ll then work on getting the test ring to print. I’m going to stay away from that custom snowboard model until I get success with other, simpler test prints”
10 (me) - “Hello everyone. Considering the saga this may become, I’ve decided to move everything to the peopoly forums. This will also ensure that all the progress is saved if (when?) I finally get it working and hopefully help others in the future”