Bluecast x10 success


I haven’t found other information about this so I thought I would post my results.
At first I couldn’t get a print to stick to the build plate. I followed suggestions and sanded the build plate with 80 grit. Then 20% would stick but only on the far left side and the prints were undersized and soft. Eventually I’m now getting good prints every time and they cast just like wax. I follow the same burn out as my normal wax casting.
(I also made 8 initial layers in cura instead of the default 4)

Update, If you add a heater and keep the chamber at 30c to 35c you can lower the laser power and achieve the same results. I get good prints at laser power 61 with a heater.
I haven’t tried it with the FEP vat yet. I’ll do that when I have to redo my PDMS vat.

z moto speed 2
PM moto speed 13
z follows 20
z reset position 1880 (it needs to be touching the bottom)
Laser Power 64



Dirk - thanks for posting. just switched to x10 from x5 and am having very soft prints. my laser was at 53 for x5 but upped it to 54 just today. can you post your profile in cura? thanks



I’m using the Moai 100um profile and just changed initial layers to 8 from 4. I use the extra fine settings and change layer height to 0.05 instead of 0.06



Thank you for the post. Could you post a photo of your results? I have been using bluecast LS for a few months now and mostly get really good results.
Only time I have failures is with Signet rings and things similar in size. My biggest complaint with the stuff is that my where the supports meet the surface it’s always sightly distorted in that spot. -thicker darker and melty.

Casting can be funny, too. Long, hot burnout. Does well with light rings, but surface gets crappy really fast with larger items such as Signets, etc…

When you say regular wax schedule, could you explain your burnout/investment process?

Sorry/not sorry for the shameless questions, but answers are hard to come by here :slight_smile:

I will be buying the x10 next and an hoping to get some results.



I still have some issues casting as well. I switched to plasticast investment and see a noticeable improvement. I also started curing under and ultraviolet light for 30 hours before casting(increase your model by 2% before printing to allow for shrinkage.) and increased my burnout temp to 1450’F(850’C) for the final 2 hours. 1hour at 350, 1 hour at 800, 2 hours at 1450, then hold for casting for an hour. (1000 for heavy rings, 1100 for lighter) My best success is a 2 hour shock burnout at 1450 then hold for casting for an hour. This always yields the best casts, but also has catastrophic failures in the burnout sometimes.

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