Bluecast x10 success

I haven’t found other information about this so I thought I would post my results.
At first I couldn’t get a print to stick to the build plate. I followed suggestions and sanded the build plate with 80 grit. Then 20% would stick but only on the far left side and the prints were undersized and soft. Eventually I’m now getting good prints every time and they cast just like wax. I follow the same burn out as my normal wax casting.
(I also made 8 initial layers in cura instead of the default 4)

Update, If you add a heater and keep the chamber at 30c to 35c you can lower the laser power and achieve the same results. I get good prints at laser power 61 with a heater.
I haven’t tried it with the FEP vat yet. I’ll do that when I have to redo my PDMS vat.

z moto speed 2
PM moto speed 13
z follows 20
z reset position 1880 (it needs to be touching the bottom)
Laser Power 64

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Dirk - thanks for posting. just switched to x10 from x5 and am having very soft prints. my laser was at 53 for x5 but upped it to 54 just today. can you post your profile in cura? thanks

I’m using the Moai 100um profile and just changed initial layers to 8 from 4. I use the extra fine settings and change layer height to 0.05 instead of 0.06

Thank you for the post. Could you post a photo of your results? I have been using bluecast LS for a few months now and mostly get really good results.
Only time I have failures is with Signet rings and things similar in size. My biggest complaint with the stuff is that my where the supports meet the surface it’s always sightly distorted in that spot. -thicker darker and melty.

Casting can be funny, too. Long, hot burnout. Does well with light rings, but surface gets crappy really fast with larger items such as Signets, etc…

When you say regular wax schedule, could you explain your burnout/investment process?

Sorry/not sorry for the shameless questions, but answers are hard to come by here :slight_smile:

I will be buying the x10 next and an hoping to get some results.

I still have some issues casting as well. I switched to plasticast investment and see a noticeable improvement. I also started curing under and ultraviolet light for 30 hours before casting(increase your model by 2% before printing to allow for shrinkage.) and increased my burnout temp to 1450’F(850’C) for the final 2 hours. 1hour at 350, 1 hour at 800, 2 hours at 1450, then hold for casting for an hour. (1000 for heavy rings, 1100 for lighter) My best success is a 2 hour shock burnout at 1450 then hold for casting for an hour. This always yields the best casts, but also has catastrophic failures in the burnout sometimes.

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So im printing with X10 and still struggling with the print often not sticking to my build plate.
I am currently on the PDMS vat (since FEP was even worse) heating up the print chamber to 30°C, the resin to 40°C mixing the resin well, cleaning the vat every time before i print. I’m printing to the far left side of the plate with supports made in chitu, slicing in cura with double the slow layers resolution of 0.060 and i even cut into my build plate to improve surface area and stickage. My settings are according to your earlier posts dirk so im lasering at 64 lowerd my reset by 3 yada yada. its gotten better like this but every print is still hit or miss and i am kinda tired of coming back to the printer only to find the print has fallen off(usually during the first few layers). Do you guys have any suggestions for me?

try decreasing the speed of the laser in the bottom layers.

are the initial layers not already really really slow? cura has them set to 5mm/s.
i just did a test with several different support-bottoms if you will. and turns out a block (or cube as its called in chitu) in 1mm hight works the best for me. maybe the others are designed for less stickage or something…

Have you taken some 80 grit sandpaper to the build plate? The X-10 does have some initial clinging issues. I’ve roughed up my build plate and no longer have those issues. In addition in cura change the initial layers from 5 to 8. I have been meaning to add this to my earlier post, but you know, we get busy and don’t always come back to the forums until we have a problem.

Jea i did that first. I’m getting good results now. I further upped the number of slow layers and made them even slower in cura. Also for delicate stuff im building a cube- raft in in chitu that also helps. Thanks for your initial post. There is not much in the way of X10 information out there.

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thank you for the info, would you mind link this post to the jewelers group? i’m sure they would appreciate your work very much

I want to link it, but I’m not sure how to.

post a comment to the thread :Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers
and then link your post to it image

I find it curious that there are only three people out there printing bluecast with the moai. Figured they probably don’t have any issues in printing it, but after how much tweaking it took me to get mostly good results I find that unlikely now. How come? Are there no jewellers with moais? Not that the form2 is any more reliable in my opinion…

we do have a community of jewelers using moai, reach them here:Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers