I’ve had my Moai 130 for a couple of weeks now and ever since I finished the calibrations I’ve been working on dialing in the parameters for the resin. Unfortunately I’ve had more frustration than success there but I hold out hope that if I just keep tinkering I’ll eventually find the magic numbers that unlock the printer’s potential. If not I’ll probably make a more detailed post with all the problems I’ve run into.
In the meantime there’s two problems I keep running into that I haven’t found described anywhere so far:
Whenever I use the heater my prints fail. Prints that might at least have a 50/50 chance of printing successfully otherwise have a 100% chance of failing whenever I have the heater on. Mostly I’ve been using the PM ring for testing but I’ve tried this with other files and had the same result (with laser powers from 54-62). I’ve noticed the resin I’m using (PolyJuice White) gets very runny with the heater but it still seems odd. I didn’t run into this particular issue when I was using Peopoly Grey so it might be a property of the PolyJuice resin but I’m not really sure if
A) it’s fine to leave the heater off?
B) if stable temperature is so important what else I could try?
I’ve gone through a PDMS vat and two sheets of FEP film in two weeks, not because they got cloudy but because they were damaged removing prints. In the case of the PDMS vat the print cured into the PDMS layer. That one may have been the resin I was using (it’s persistently overcuring). Everytime I’ve had a print fail I’ve had a skin of cured resin on the bed and a silhouette of cured resin on the vat. When I scrape them off the FEP film is occasionally damaged by the tool. Maybe that’s not normally a concern but with all the failed prints I’m having to scrape the bottom of the vats several times a day. Is there a safer way to do that than pushing a sharp metal object across the film?