Back to basics or sold!

It’s been years since I have touched my Moai 130, mostly due to frustrations with printing with it. Since I’ve had it, I think I have gone through quite a bit resin and maybe gotten 4 or 5 successful prints.

Since then I have purchased a DLP printer and a FDM, these seemingly work out of the box and I can’t help but think there is something small that I am missing to get this printer really going. Looking back into the Moai, I went ahead and purchased the FEP vat (as my DLP uses one and I am familiar enough with it) and the Easy-to-level print bed.

Following all the guides on the wiki, I still cannot get a good print. I’ve noticed alot of mixed information in there as well regarding the PDMS vat and the FEP vat. (Some of the old leveling guides only have PDMS settings in there as I understand)

Can anyone help me take this step by step, or just point me in the direction of each guide? I have to be missing something, there is no way this printer is this bad?

Or if anyone wants a cheap printer, I’d be willing to sell it.

Last shot at getting this thing running otherwise I’m boxing it up and selling it.

Moai 130: Easy-to-level build plate, FEP Vat.

Probably worth giving a shot getting it going again if you’re still interested in owning the moai, as well as knowing it works should increase your sale value.

My understanding is that peopoly tells people with the FEP vat and the easy to level plate to just level on that, but I imagine that only applies if it’s not really out of wack from trying to level the old way for the pdms and old plate.

Probably worth trying the FEP leveling method:
and doing the DIY test which you can find the gcode for here:

If you can’t get anything close do decent results with FEP it might be best to try the original leveling method with the PDMS and old plate to get it in a decent spot to try FEP again.

The full calibration and leveling guide (for pdms and old plate):
and checkup:
would be worth running through as well.

Hello. What I suggest is make sure that your galvo mirrors and glass are clean, you can run the calibration file and use the paper template that sits in an empty vat. When you run this look for the laser spot to be well defined and not spread out or dispersed. If the laser spot is distorted things might need to be cleaned and recleaned specially if you have had any resin spill or leak down below. Next I would make sure that your build plate starts at the correct height. This is adjustable and if you have the adjustable build plate it makes it easier. What you need to do is with an empty vat you adjust the z axis height so that the build plate is lowered down into the vat and there is the slightest air gap and then I lower it by one more and adjust the build plate. The resin needs to be shaken well and poured in and allowed to set so no air bubbles. Temp is critical as well, if it is too cold prints can fail. I have an egg incubator heater. You need to set the correct settings for the resin you are using. Then print out the test ring and if that works well, any mistakes on other models is most likely the digital asset issue. All of the info I mentioned such as the calibration file, how to adjust the build plate height, and the resin settings are all easy to find here and the wiki. I had been frustrated with my moai as well until I figured out things as the info could use an update. I will try to help you through.

Thanks to you both @Jeby and @Sandman5000

I’ll probably give these a shot tonight and see if it works out.