Has anybody used these resins? What settings are good to start with? I bought 4 liters of it before I knew what I was doing. Hoping I can use it. (Still don’t know what I am doing as I am still assembling my Moai 130).
I would suggest right off the bat dropping your laser power down to 49-48 and maybe even lower as they are DLP resins. Also, don’t use your PDMS vat as it will destroy it quite quickly. Use the FEP. Then follow the recommended FEP vat settings on the firmware.
@Perras_Design sin variar mucho el tema, alguien ha probado estas? por la descripcion los mas correcto seria tambien con FEP
Thank you. That gives me a starting point. I have the FEP vat and easy level build plate. I did read that the DLP resins destroy the PDMS layer on the Facebook group. Also been reading quite a few people not having success with the FEP vat. Going to give it a try.
I have not tried that one, I’m sorry.
The FEP vat actually works fantastic.
The biggest thing with it is getting the settings correct.
After a lot of messing around I have found that low and slow is the way to go.
My settings are currently as recommended in the updated FEP setting documentation suggested by Peopoly.
Also, Cura will be needed to slice, as Asura’s profiles don’t seem to do the trick for anything other than the Peopoly resin. In my experience anyway.
Bummer, I wish I would have read this before. My PDMS vat was working great until I put Anycubic resin in it. Just because I like to understand more, can someone explain why? Also, I thought I just had to buy 405nm resin; what else do I need to look for when I buy resin? Obviously Peopoly resin is the official recommendation, but most of us will appreciate looking for a deal.
Resins for LCD resin printers get to warm in a laser SLA printer because the laser puts out way more energy in one tiny spot compared to a led lamp projecting a picture through an LCD mask. This makes the LCD resins very hot and destroys the PDMS.
LCD can still print on Moai, it’s best to use FEP vat and it would take a few tries with the ring test to find the right exposure
however, we can not ensure the quality will be good every print
Thanks for the replies here. I got four successful cylinders on my second calibration attempt using the suggested settings for FEP except that I used laser power 49 (due to Anycubic resin) and Z Reset of 1814. Unfortunately my cylinders are almost 2mm short. While I’m wondering if that could be a resin difference, I did find this discussion where another user tweaked the Z-Reset to get to the right height (with PDMS, standard build plate, and [assumed] Peopoly resin).
If I’m understanding this right, I would need to change Z Reset to 1795 and my only hesitation there is that it feels way out of the suggested 1815-1820 range. I’ll go ahead and run another attempt there while waiting for replies and post my results.
z reset change is used only on Ez-build plate. If you are using the standard build plate, you would have to go through the steps in the leveling guide again :https://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai-leveling
“Also, Cura will be needed to slice, as Asura’s profiles don’t seem to do the trick for anything other than the Peopoly resin. In my experience anyway.”
That’s his personal experience, so he will have his own way and it’s your choice to listen or not
Asura is made to generate support and slice specifically for Moai
But if you export your file to .stl, it will slice in Cura like any other
Thank you, just wanted to make sure this was not a known “way of working” with the DLP resins on the Moai 130. I’m glad I do not need to use another software to slice the files. I guess if ever one needs to adjust the exposure time the speed settings can be adjusted in the Asura profiles as well.
hello do you have the settings plz ??? i need to use too for anycubic resin