After circle test everything is still wack-o-

Mioa 200 pre calibrated has never been able to print 2 objects that fit together so I decided to figure out why … this is what I am running into

** galvos in X and Y have diffrent distance values aslo the Center “0,0” of the galvos changes upon every other power off power on – the most important part is that X and Y are not square – peopoply has told me that this dosen’t matter on facebook but it dose

This is the circle test since im holding the camera it shows more distortion that isn’t there – I drew red line of how close I was able to make copy the circle
72576325_10100399185176848_757589040823271424_n 73024778_10100399706297518_4949618009531482112_n

How ever when I try print something like a square

I get a trapezoid deg ration in size my X and Y is is distorted with in 2 inches of home. I can understand it becoming distorted away from center but not at center

I bought this printer because it said “Pre-calibrated” yet here I am yet i am learning that is far from the case - While I am able to print things everything has been off in size and dimension

all the small circles should be 29.6
ontop of this the galvos is creating an elongated trapezoid away from the door the outside square should be 150mm

im not sure what to do and each week seem to find a new issue with this printer instead of printing its driving me nuts

1 Like

Hi Cory,

the Moai 200 has a basic distortion. You can find more information here:

Moai 200 - Measurement and correction of accuracy

Asura 2.2.4 has a Matrix Software Equalizer (Moai 200 only). I am not aware that this was really tested. Here’s my last attempt to get more information:

New Moai 200 calibration in Asura 2.2.3

Not only my questions regarding the development of the Moai 200 remained unanswered so far. I suppose the Moai is not a high priority at PeoPoly anymore. I think that’s very a shame!

1 Like

I understand the basic distortion but my x and y seem to be more then 1 mm offset in travel … I think the galvos was improperly calibrated or broken – I would assume if it was normal distortion the measurements would be off in all 4 quadrants – but since there diffrent i am assuming the mirror movement is off

1 Like

have you tried doing your test print with Asura’s latest 200 calibration file? It is based off ad_fontec’s findings.

1 Like

yes I did … the problem starts with the main circle in the middle … It should be 29.6 based on the gcode - what I end up with is 28.9 by 30.4 when I should be getting 29.6 by 29.6 … I understand that what I am to get will very and that the liquid will distort. But I was expecting something like 28 by 28 or 32 by 32 … I can adjust my models for that but I am getting something very similar to my cross test were the X and the Y distance from home are all different lengths - In return I am getting slightly wacky prints

– The first few prints I did were full figures the ring test - a groot - another model I made - they all came out slightly off (with bad gcode lines from asura) but it was hard to notice since they were organic so ignored it thinking it was the resin drying…

1 Like

I think your test print with moai200_calib will look better than with None.

Here a little background to moai200_calib on my part:

The calibration matrix is based on the measurement of the laser on my Moai 200. Each moai 200 is different so that the calibration is not 100% transmissible to another moai 200.

Only by measuring the laser on your machine and creating your own custom matrix can you get better accuracy.

So far, there are only a few users who have tested this feature in Asura 2.2.3-4 and posted something about it.

I asked PeoPoly if they tested the calibration on one of their Moai 200 … no answer.
I have offered my cooperation several times … no interest.

PS: If you buy a pig in a poke, then you should not be surprised if you end up with a mess. Sorry

1 Like

I understand this is a cheap printer … there seems to be no documentation I can find about the galvos and the other dials

I understand that I can physically twist the X and Y … but I cant find anything about the travel

Is that grid somewhere or did you have to make it yourself :frowning:
based on that form it was like peopoly went here we did the work … but now you have to redo everything we did

Im pretty sure that grid wouldn’t be uniform at all on my machine
I have a full 1.6 to 2 mm difference in my X and Y travel that I need to correct
my printer at moia 200 at best has an accuracy of 1500-2000um my fdm that I built 5 years ago has a 10-30um

1 Like

I have developed and realized the above-linked method for the correction of laser paths for my moai 200. The grid is projected onto a sheet of paper by g-code and recorded by a camera. Details can be found in the link.

In principle, you could also use the laser directly to the grid
expose on a photosensitive paper and then evaluate this. For this purpose, the intersection coordinates must be measured (scann) and transferred to the matrix. Thus you do not need the expensive camera construction. If you want to realize this, I can help you.

1 Like

I don’t have the beta firmware * do you know if I can create gcode that will set the Z-height without it – the dial takes forever with my small screwdriver

1 Like

Can you please say what exactly you want to achieve?

I want to set the z-height in gcode to 0 — M1003 X0 – so I can play with the laser calibration more this weekend and not have to do it manually

guess I can just unplug the z motor

Hello Cory,

Did you continue on the weekend?

The extended g-code commands from the Moai 130 (beta) are unfortunately not yet implemented in the Moai 200. These would greatly facilitate the work, especially the tests of exposure. In addition, this can be expected with an improvement in print quality and quantity (lower error rate)! I sincerely hope that @PeoPoly will exploit the potential through its positive effects on users and not least on sales figures.

A small step for PeoPoly, but a big step for the users!

But this only by the way.

If you write down what you intend to do, then I can certainly help you more.

1 Like

slowly working on it – although it is kind of sad that @peopoly has no true way to calibrate there machine

The 200 circle test is the worst thing to do because you calibrating in the area of most distortion that distorts the center

  • so in my case the circle was perfect dead on but the center of the bed was wacked the hell out the X and Y had a 2-4 mm difference in size but @peopolysupport was telling me everything is fine after the circle test and that the circle test was god to all tests …

you need to make your own test files of crosses and squares from 10 to 40 mm and calibrate out … you’ll find that the distortion starts to happen around 30 to 40 from center visibly

now that I have a starting point I am trying to figure out how to use the asura calibration
** kind of weird @peopoly has no starting point or standard file to compare too
so i am making my own and praying

either that or I make a test circle in the place I am going to print for each model I print and calibrate the circle every time

it just becomes extra frustrating when the galvos has no set home and can change every other print and on top of that you are forced to use only an SD card … but you have only have a 50% chance of that working correctly

1 Like

it’s a bit weird that in your circle test, the 4 x,-x,y,-y match the circle but the size of the cross doesn’t say the same
the center cross, is to tell you where the center of the circle is, and the circle is for dimensional size
The circle test and center cross could be eye-aiming so it might be not really accurate, but which slicer did you used to print your model on the picture? If it’s Asura, have you print the Asura cross calibration to test?