About to try sacrificing a goat


#21

in cura there is the option to centre automatically, its on by default, which would have raised it.


#22

Yeah normally I want it to do that, just didn’t notice in this case as the supports were really close to the base of the model and overshot a bit - never trust auto supports. Got the printer running now, will see how it’s going when I can see it


#23

we couldn’t have guessed in a million years :smiley:


#24

can you give us (at least part or screen shot of) the model? We weed out several bugs in support from 1.5 to 2.0 and could always clean up more


#25

Yep looks like the problem is solved. I’ll post screenshots when I get home.

Anyone else having problems getting their prints to stick while the test prints work, check the bases of your prints after Asura. If you have some that go into the negative z axis, put the stl in mesh mixer, select that section of support and then do a plane cut on it to flatten it off.


#26

Well I got the print to stick to the print bed, but the quality is still awful with layer shifts and visible layer lines all over the place.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZywiqVDQT54RgBz5EXO6hnJEkcUNJhva?usp=sharing

So…where’s that goat?

I’ve seriously had enough of this thing. I can’t seem to get anything even remotely close to a good print off of this bloody machine.


#27

hey ben, how about a screenshot of how the support is setup. I understand it is likely your private design so you can blur out the main object. just show what it looks and also how it is hollowed

what layer height where you printing.


#28

I was printing at 60um and if you like I could send the gcode over to you, see if you can get better results? I don’t understand why I keep getting these issues. Also I keep getting vertical lines in the prints too that you can see clearly up her left arm.


#29

can you post a wireframe of a detail, like the face?


#30

Sure thing, it’ll have to wait till I get home though


#31

some of the issues seem related to the model topology and cura slicer (bad slicer, bad!). We can tell from the wireframe. Is it coming straight from zbrush?


#32

I’ve had that part of the face come out ok before on previous attempts so not sure how likely it is to be the actual mesh. Yeah it was decimated in ZBrush, taken into netfabb for repairs, then to mesh mixer for hollowing and holes, then Asura for supports although I’ve used Chitu as well.

I realised I’ve got the z reset set to 1878 instead of 1877 but I did the levelling at 1978 so in theory it shouldn’t matter should it? I might give it another try tonight at 1877 and also wedge the vat into the clamp to make sure it’s not moving at all.

It’s such a hard thing to test though as it’s a ~22 hour print. But it’s this sort of stuff I got the printer for. If I can’t print this kind of stuff at this kind of scale, then it’s just useless to me.


#33

I print the same kind of stuff and I can suggest to cut the model in multiple pieces because object orientation is very important and being able to find the perfect orientation for all the feature of such a complex mesh is almost impossible.

also use hi-temp resin if you don’t already


#34

I’ve got some hi-temp grey, but I figured that if I can’t get decent prints with standard resin then I don’t stand much chance with a fussy resin (at least that’s the impression I get from the threads talking about hi-temp). I’ve just sunk another wedge of cash into another couple of litres of black resin and a spare vat.

I’m getting close to the point where I’ve spent so much extra cash on the Moai and not got a single good print that I may as well have just gone for a Form 2.

Maybe i’ll give the hi temp a try and just cross my fingers or find another small mammal to sacrifice


#35

yep that’s true

yeah been there too, but the form2 is not free from issues as well and resin costs 3x.


#36

From what I’ve worked out, paying the import duty on the Peopoly resin and being able to order Form resin from a UK supplier then it doesn’t end up being much more expensive. And so far since I haven’t had a decent print out of 3 litres of resin that’s cost me around 270 quid for literally a pile of cured resin that’s of no use for anything.

Even getting 1 single useable print out of that would be a better cost proposition


#37

@matt3o
Here are some of the wireframes of the mesh.

Image from Gyazo

Image from Gyazo

Image from Gyazo

@peopoly
Images of the supports

Image from Gyazo

Image from Gyazo

Image from Gyazo

Image from Gyazo

Image from Gyazo

The supports were created in Asura using the standard settings for them.


#38

that looks like a lovely sculpt.
One thing- I cant see any vent holes?Thats a lot of suction going on…I see notable liines in your photos by the arm pit.
That could well be caused by suction pull?
I dont know, lots of possibilities here, but this is the first thing that makes me go hmmm ;_)

  • edit- if you dont want to pop holes in the sculpt then lift her flat base off the build plate, you loose a touch of finish on the bottom edge but it would open out the model so no suction and this is prob. your best fix too.
    If you lift her up by 5mm and allow the supports to be built around her bottom, I bet its much better.
    (Just for the sake of not needing another goat)

#39

Thanks @teivion
It’s pretty hard to make out in the screenshot due to the supports but there are two vents at the bottom, both visible in the last underside image. Around her body there is one just at the top (can see the channel) and then another in the base of her arm. Though I think you may be very right about around the armpit, I didn’t think to put one there but probably should do.

I’ve been in 2 minds about tilting the model, mostly due to wanting as little support cleanup afterwards as possible, but I guess if it was on the back it’d be a smoother surface to work with so wouldn’t be too bad a place for them.


#40

I did spot those vent holes but I think they are going to be too small to allow the flow of resin through etc ?
Most need to be a good 3 - 5 mm diam.
If you did tilt the model toward her back you would free up the front faces for clean up which makes sense - always a tough call.

Ill be honest- you seem to have the machine set up properly as I know for a fact if I had printed that when I first had my machine I wouldnt have made a finished print as it would have torn the PDMS very early on…either from suction ( me not venting or having the lazer massively over powered…)
I think you are now just needing to suss the supports out ( which is a challenge youll face for every model from now on, sadly…
Form do have a downloadable software that generates supports and output for the form2.
Its not usable for the moai but you could have a go with it and see how it orientates the model…